Getting Serious About Rosé


Rosé all day. All night. All year. For millennia.

I hope you can deal with it. I sure can. And I’m by no means alone in that regard. Rosé is ubiquitous, it’s the fastest growing category of wine, and it’s seriously having a moment. I would call it a “Rosé Renaissance.”

And while we may a bit late to the rosé game, it was actually the beverage of choice during ancient times. As the earliest recorded wine in history, the “rosé lifestyle” is as old as time. Snapchat that!

What is rosé anyway?

Rosés are pink wines made from red grapes, whose depth of color is dependent upon the amount of time the juice remains in contact with grape skins. Like any wine, rosé can be made in a slew of styles, from dry to sweet, ranging in color from very pale pink to Kool-Aid red. Rosé winemakers are careful to limit contact time between the skins and juice so that only a slight degree of color is extracted from the skins and incorporated into the final wine.

It’s important to note though that color does not necessarily indicate sweetness, and a common misconception is that darker rosés must be sweeter. On the contrary, these can be just as bone dry than their more pastel counterparts.

The earliest wines were pale in color because vinification techniques involving extended maceration and pressing were not widespread. Ancient Greeks brought grapevines to what is present-day Southern France in 600 BC, and the Romans, through their well-developed commerce networks, helped distribute the rosé that had already gained a foothold in the region. As a result, Provence had become, and still is considered, the center of the rosé world.

How is rosé made?

The “maceration” process--the most common method for making rosé--involves crushing and fermenting red grapes and allowing that juice to soak for a few hours or several days until the desired amount of color is achieved. The entire batch of juice is then finished into rosé wine. Most pale Provencal and rosé wines from Southern France are made in this fashion.

In the much less common saignée method of rosé production, a certain amount of juice that has been crushed and vatted for a short period of time is run or “bled” off and made into rosé wine. The remaining juice soaks with the skins and is made into red wine. Many of these rosés tend to be bolder, darker, and more unctuous on the palate.

What rosé should I drink today?

The beauty, and hence the recent resurgence, of rosé lies in its diversity of styles, flavors, and food-friendly characteristics. Provence is considered the standard-bearer but quality rosé is produced worldwide. For a textbook example of Provencal-style rosé try Domaine de Paris (about $16) made from the classic blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault. It’s dry, mineral, and refreshing with aromas and flavors of watermelon and strawberries.

For a more serious and complex take on a Provencal rosé, sample the Chateau d’Esclan Rock Angel (about $37) produced from the free-run juice of a unique blend of Grenache and Rolle. It’s barely-there color belies its complex flavors of red berries and satiny finish.

Discover Ostatu Rioja Alavesa Rosado (about $20) from Spain for a floral yet more herbaceous rendition of the wine. Produced from a distinct blend that includes Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Viura it’s lean, delicate, and refreshing.

For a New World rosé that pays homage to tradition, sample Patelin de Tablas Rosé from Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, California (about $25). Made from a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Counoise, it’s a prime example of Paso-Rhone synergy: golden-blush hue, spicy aromas, raspberry flavors, and bright minerality.

Finally, for an exquisite sparkling version of your pink drink, savor Peramo Anniversario Spumante Rosé from Italy’s Veneto region. Made from the Raboso Piave grape typically used for still wines, this wine is jasper in color, luscious yet refreshing on the palate with notes of strawberries. (available by the glass or bottle at local boutique Hotel Trundle).

Looking to revel in more rosé? Partake in more pink? Bask in the blush? Local rosé sampling events abound to help you explore what has become a bona fide wine category. Contact me at erlinda@thevinicola.com, or visit www.thevinicola.com, Instagram (@thevinicola), or Facebook (theViniCola) to find or schedule your next rosé soirée! Also known as the "Wine Evangelist," Erlinda A. Doherty, CSW, WSET Level 3, thinks rosé is more than just the “Champagne of Millennials.”

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erlinda@thevinicola.com  |  202.247.1268

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